Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Attaching the transom to the mold

16 December 2014

A modest amount of progress last night.  I got all the clamps off the transom.  I learned by the flinch method that epoxy makes for a very sharp edge.  So far I have contributed blood and sweat.  Not aware of any tear-inducing errors to date, but it's early and goofs made now may not be apparent for some time.

There are a couple of slots milled into the plywood ladder labeled 'scribe center' with a marker.  The slots are not in the photos that come with the methods, nor is there any description of what 'scribe center' means.  I screwed in a couple of 18 inch or so long pieces of 2x4 that I had in the shop parallel to the edge of the ladder.  They're the white pieces in the photo below. The ladder at this end has a 30 degree or so angle.  You can see the slot milled into the far side ladder piece in the photo below.  It's right about the 2x6 and angled up towards the stern.  I used a couple of clamps to hold the 2x4's in place, predrilled, and then set the screws.  Then I put a flat piece of plywood at the base of the slot.  (at least I think it was the base -- my photos are terrible and my memory worse).  Anyways I then laid the transom on the flat piece of plywood and used a couple of deep C-clamps to hold the transom to the 2x4's.  I checked that the transom was centered with a plumb bob.  I did my best to sight down the lines to make sure all is well and fare.  I will re-check this tonight with a long batten.  I'm confident I am where I want the transom wrt to the hog and keel, but in retrospect did not check that the edges supporting chines are parallel.  I'll do that tonight before I start working on trimming the stem.





The transom attached to the form.  I attached it to the 2x4s with a couple of countersunk #8 screws on each side.


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